Designer Files – Kallol Datta 1955

Having always been intrigued by his garments, prints and silhouettes, I was first drawn towards Kallol Datta through his Twitter description – ‘breath of fresh darkness’

Showing this time at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2012 on the 17th of February, 2012 along with Rimzim Dadu, Heres a bit about him and his collection ‘xoxo’.

‘xoxo’ is an austere, bordering on brooding take on ‘love’. There were various points which he wanted to tackle when it came to creating this line. Reconstructing garments, influences of uniforms, a playful takeon restrictive clothing and more. Longer and leaner silhouettes, warm shades of grey and an uncharacteristic attention to details.

Who is your style icon? Which one personality would you like to dress up or see wearing your garments?
I really don’t have anyone who comes to mind as a style icon. I can however dream of forcing Gong Li, my Grandmums and Tilda Swinton into my garments; at gunpoint ofcourse.
Thats Gong Li and Tilda Swinton:

Who is your favourite contemporary designer and if given a choice whose garments would you absolutely love to own and dress up in?
There are so many designers whose work I relate to and absolutely love. I am fortunate that I get to wear so many of my friends’garments – ‘my village’ by Rimzim Dadu, Anand Bhushan, Rishta by Arjun Saluja and Sailex NG amongst others.

Do you think its fair that Indian fashion magazines tend to shed more light on International Designers rather than focussing more on Indian designers and promoting them? Any opinions on this.
I’ll be honest. I don’t read/ flip through Fashion Magazines. I’ll read an article or go through a shoot if someone brings it to my notice. Am sure if Indian Magazines feature international designers more than Indian, it’s because the former are advertisers.

What do you think of social media networking in India? Has it helped you in any way? Are there any blogs/websites that you keep track of/follow?
Hah! am as technologically challenged as they come! I am active on twitter and I enjoy interacting with bloggers and non-bloggers. I follow Lovestruckcow; there is a certain awkwardness in her posts which I love and relate to. TheDevilWore for his sheer enthusiasm and dedication. Lightbox on and Theroom406.

Do you have a muse? In 5 words describe the person who you have designed your collection for.
Grey haired women smoking Bensons.

Have you ever had to stitch an entire garment for yourself, after setting up your label?If so then when and why?
Yes! I cut and sewed my first line (SS08 at fashion week) myself. I still pattern cut/ drape all my calico toilles/ prototypes. Till today when a garment get’s complicated to sew for my tailors, I sit on the machine and sew it. I feel other than inherent emotional connect to one’s work, technical prowess is a designer’s biggest gift.

What place/city/town/village in India inspires you and why?
I love Kolkata. It keeps me lazy and unaffected.

Do you follow trends? What all will you be seen wearing on a Saturday night at a friends house party or outside?
No. Trends were created by emotionally vapid forecasting agencies and head honchos at Design houses to prevent people from forming their own opinions. I’d be wearing the same thing I wear everyday-something black.

Are you aware of the comic con happenning in Delhi while the fashion week is happenning? Who was your favourite comic character as a child or even now?
Yes. I went to it the 1st time it took place at Dilli Haat. and what a disappointment. Don’t judge me, but I loved Cheetarah and Panthro from the thundercats. I always thought those two were doing the dirty.
In a good way ofcourse.
Thats Cheetara & Panthro from The Thundercats

Here are 5 of Kallol’s favourite looks/outfits that he has designd and/or made in the past. ‘No particular reason for loving them except that I felt an emotional connect while cutting, sewing and making them.

Autumn Winter 2009-2010 ‘Verbal Autopsy’

Spring Summer 2008 ‘Future for Sale’

L-R: Pre Fall 2011; Autumn Winter 2011-2012 ‘Hazing’; Spring Summer 209 ‘Avant Garde Fuck’

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